Mount Nemrut

A hard, hard days riding. Rode the 400km to near Mount Nemrut but the last 50km was all off road, mountain sections and a bit of a mission! It didn't help that I couldn't find the correct turn off from the main(?!) road and ended up fully cross country over farmers fields trying to get on track! Eventually found the remote hotel and took a ride up to the summit to see the old damaged statues (usual story) and then cleaned myself up and after dinner met a great American guy named Vince and a local called 'Kudu.' After some debate Kudu couldn't recommend highly enough a visit back to the summit at 4.30am!! to see the spectacular sunrise over the mountains. Considering in my job I've had to get up at that time for all sorts of wastes of times I thought, why not?

It was indeed spectaclar but now I've done it I'll stay in bed next time!

Goreme and the changes...

Next stop Goreme. What a strange place! It's very much like the Star Wars place filmed in Tunisia and if you've no idea what that means then Tim's thoughts that it's "like a village in a quarry" isn't too far off! The rocks look like they've been sand blasted into all types off shapes and sizes over the centuries and no doubt people have/do live in them.
Coupled with that, the people are now less Turkish than those that I've met, more Syrian maybe. Not that I've ever met any but maybe you know what I mean? Also the food is now firmly middle eastern, with figs, dates, olives cheese etc for breakfast. The picture is the view from the hotel where we kicked back after dinner and watched the most incredible electric storm all around us.

Asia

Now it's getting really hot (up to 40 degrees). Fortunately my Hein Gericke 'Air 3' clothing is working really well. So I crossed one of Istanbul's bridges into Asia for the second time (I managed it during my attempt to find the hotel two days before). Met a young guy on the road who was travelling on his own. He'd already done 10,000km through many countries including France, Spain and northern Africa and he really impressed me. As jealous as he was of my trip I was slightly embarrassed at the high standard of my bike, kit and support in comparison to his stuff.

Spent the night wild camping, with myself and Scott on kitchen duties. The ingredients were bought for us and it was Thai green curry all round, which turned out alright actually.

Istanbul

Istanbul. What a crazy place. This along with Iran and Turkmenistan was one of the places that I was looking forward to visiting the most. The ride in was 'interesting' with the world famous mayhem in the sweltering heat fully living to expectations. I did decide to try and get a bit clever with the gps though and ended up 30km on the other side of town from my hotel, which meant a 2hr ride around the city trying to stay alive! I made it though and had just about enough energy to have a couple beers and head for bed. A rest day the following day meant a chance to seek out the Turkmen embassy to enquire about a new, quick visa. Took the train out and spent the morning unsuccessfully chasing the visa. Oh well. Used the days off the bike to visit the Blue Mosque, Grand Bazar, The Palace Cistern, bought 'The Bookseller Of Kabul,' met and had lunch with a real casanova kebab shop owner named 'Elton.' Good times in a buzzing place, need to go back...

Surprising Bulgaria

First thing in the morning I confirmed with Jack my Iranain intentions. I was informed that the only problem could be actually getting into Turkmentistan as things required would be another visa (quickly), a separate guide (secret police) costing about $350 US and of course ensuring that I'm not delayed and can meet the group and stick to my onward visa deadlines. Anyway, on the way into VT (as it's known) I was informed that Iran was not possible due to me having a 'group visa.' I have a plan b though...

Anyway, Bulgaria. A pleasant surprise! The country looks a bit run down after all those years behind the iron curtain but also feels like it's growing. It also has loads of the most wonderful 'soviet symbols' everywhere including the two in the picture at altitute which are just staggering. Stayed in a very posh hotel in a nice little place called VT (for short) and as ashamed as I am to admit it ended up in 'The George' English pub. Had cottage pie, nice, and a drop of red but was shattered and needed sleep asap. Soon woke up though and went exploring on my own for further entertainment...Not much about though in the town and so ended up back in the George and spent until 3-4? drinking with the owner, a sort of younger 'Ron Jeremy' (google it girls) who was a bit of a legend, his barmaid Eve, an ex pat Howard, Mackam Paul and his missus Elle, who were looking around for a place to buy. A decent night all in all, but no photos! I left my camera in my room. Shame.

'Dracular's Castle' Ooh, scary.

Continued my journey through the u-bend of Romania and ended up in Bran where there's a castle that has something to do with Dracular. Great. Did some laundry instead, sat back and watched the tour leader Jack throw out 'dental floss Dave's' (from the US) quite simply ridiculace equipment list, including a MASSIVE calculator, US army issue toilet paper, spare everything and a military green duffle bag stamped 'US Army.' Just what you need when you're heading into Iran! Or maybe not, more later...

Had a meal out, laughed my $£^% off at Tim's Tours stuggling to make any impression on their blind order of 'Polenta' with extra cheese on top and later , I sent an email to my my friend Sarah about Iran...

It now appears that due to 'troubles' within the country and the FCO advice against all British travel to the country, Kudu will now be re-routing the trip through Georga and Azerbaijan. Sarah though, (being Iranian) kindly enquired at home for me and confirmed that the 'troubles' were only local within Tehran and it was business as usual. I then had the night to mull over the possibility of visiting my most looked forward to country all on my own. Perfect...

"Do not fear me gypsy"

So, with tiredness I threw my leg over my bike and pointed it the 450km at Romania. I managed to stay in bed for a few more hours beyond 7.30am and even considered staying there (bed) for another day but in the end I decided that as much as I wanted that scenario to happen it was probably the safest thing to press on. A wet ride then followed all the way to my hotel in Romania. Romanian roads are by far the worst I've ridden so far on this trip both in the condition and accident rate. At one point, there were three tasty simultanious incidents within 2km of each other! The first one being particularly big with two cars leaving the road and dropping down an embankment! Naturally I stopped to see if any help was needed/I was going to get my own room for the rest of the trip, as it had only just happened. I'm still sharing with Scott btw! Anyway, Romania is a Karzy. Put it this way, the village where Borat 'lives' in the film was shot there. Aviod.

Oh and on that subject, I finally discovered that the car that he's towed in at the start of the film is a...Dacia 130 (formally a Renault 12). This one's for you bruv, check out the 'pimping'...alloy wheels, blue flames, spot lights, full leather and there was even some ICE onboard kicking out some Romanian folk. You love it!

A cheeky half John?

A rest day in Budapest.

Spent the first half of it emailing, charging electrical stuff and generally just hanging around in the hotel. The weather was grim anyway. Eventually around 3pm decided that I really should head into town to do the touristy stuff. So I did. Fairly quickly I was back in the hotel, too early to sleep, a bit late to make decent plans for the night, considering there was a 7.30am get up and go planned...So, the famous last words "fancy a cheeky half" were mention to Brummie John and we were off. Initially it was just two or three. Nice and easy, we even played a few games of pool. Then, after a chat with the bar staff it seemed that 'Bar Rio' in town was the place to head to just for a couple more. On the way though, on the train, we bumped into a crazy group of local girls on a hen party. After a brief bit of banter we were invited (I think) to join them in some Karaoke bar...The rest of the night then descended into a right old laugh of a night. We were made to feel very welcome by all. Myself and John even treated(?!) the private party to some of what we thought would be a 'Tom Jones standard' of singing compared to the Hungarians effort of their singing of English language songs. Wrong. Some big guy (I'll never remember his name) was the daddy on the mic and looking back, our efforts were Eurovision standard. Anyway, 4.30am arrived and signalled the end of this mayhem and a long walk to our hotel followed. Along with the thought of 450km ahead of us that morning! Massive thanks to Agnes and her friend (sorry, again I can't remember her name!) who ensured that me and BJ were not left to hide in the shadows...

Destination...Budapest

Left our eerily quite hotel (The Shining?) in the wilderness pretty late after finally getting hold of a missing insurance paper. Had a chat with a teacher and a couple of Slovak kids that turned up as I was waiting for the document to be sent through. Played catch up after then, leaving Slovakia (much like the CZ, but more rural) and into Hungary. Initially, the place looked much more upmarket with the roads and houses very smart over the border but that effort to impress the neighbours soon disappeared and the old soviet 'features' soon appeared. Budapest was slow to get into, seemingly starting 18km out! Once in, iffy hotel and not much around to do nearby. Ended up in a very local bar that was like a portacabin but not as luxurious with the highlight being one of the group chatting up a beggar for a laugh and a visit to what is a contender for worst toilet visited (think Trainspotting). Mercifully though, late on I met and shared a beer with a local guy named Virag (John) who was, along with being a nice bloke, very willing to share some information on the country, its people and himself. Thanks Virag, you saved the night!

Onto Slovakia. But first...is it true..?

Hangover. Felt a bit delicate after the night before so I was very happy with a late start after forcing loads of water into myself. Mentioned to 'Tim's Tours' the unconfirmed report from Major Johanesson that the Czech city of Zlin contained the countries most beautiful girls and my intention to find out (for him, of course) if it was indeed true. Fast forward two hours and lunch on Zlin's square. Zlin is apparently a new city so whilst fresh looking it doesn't have the 'old town square' look about it. Hang on, this isn't a travel programme! Er no, after my lunch 'observing' (for MJ) I was able to file a report to him in the negative. Olomouc tops the lot. Then left 'Tim's Tours' to collect some bits and bobs from the airport (thanks Mirka and Brad) and then a blast to my hotel in Slovakia killing a million insects on the way as the last 50km was in the dark. Oh, and I was nearly killed by a cheese overdose sampling a local dish!

Beautiful Olomouc (in more ways than one)

Had what is now become the start of my solo ride around the world (Jack OK'd it on an unofficial basis) to Olomouc and what a place! Stunning best describes the place, both it's buildings and women. I got in around 3 and got on the Urqell Pilsner (the best lager, end of). Time flew and many hours later I found myself in a bar negotiating/begging with the bar owner for his 'Fernet' metal poster of two honeyies 'close' that would've just looked great cut and stuck to my nearside pannier, had I have persuaded him to part with it, which I didn't. But what about that in Iran? I'd had a plan, I was going to tape it all up except for their eyes!

Whisky tasting with Major Johanesson

A small, late ride to Pardubice meant some more time for me to repack, get online (I knackered the text size though) and generally sort myself out. Eventually found Robert and his lovely apartment and even more lovely wife, Aya. We went out for the biggest pizza (which had broccoli on it?) I've seen and a stroll around town. Then back to the apartment for that whiskey...Robert is hugely knowledgeable, a true gentleman and someone I look up to and if I can learn anything from him I'd be happy but we'll see about the whisky Robert, next year in Scotland...

Time away from the group and a taste of freedom

To the Czech Replublic...

After the obligitory continental breakfast it was the long ride to the CZ. It rained. Oh and my super lightweight and expensive 'waterproofs' are not very waterproof! Bastards. So, in the iffy weather I made it as far as the CZ border with a group of five other riders. All motorways and nothing of any note however, as we approached the CZ I'd decided I'd had enough and wanted to spend a little time and lunch in Pilzen which I did. Alone. I rode into town (baffles still out) with the population of the city looking at me like I was some type of alien! Had my CZ lunch and made some calls to see friends for the next two nights. First stop Pavel in Caslav and then Robert and Aja in Pardubice...

The first thing I've learnt...

Is that I don't really like riding with others. Riding with a group is so restricting. If you're not leading it just feels like you're being towed along, plus to stop for a picture, adjust an earplug, or whatever, it holds everyone up. Will need to speak with Jack, the tour leader, to investigate if the riding in at least pairs system can be 'overlooked.'

Still, the weather was again great and after many mountain passes we ended up in Austria. Much like Switzerland actually but with a few lorries on wider, faster roads.

Switzerland

This is more like it. Twisty, twisty and even more twisty. Rode up into Switzerland in great weather and beautiful scenery. The roads were full of bikes, much like the approach to a Moto GP event. Took out my exhaust baffles for a laugh for the last 5km...Outragous best describes how they sound!

Mile munching in northern France

I've actually been writing a little diary as I go but in truth it's all about bike stuff, my moods and equipment etc so I think I'll try and keep these short and sweet.

Day 2. Boring ride across France until the last 20km where the alps began and things went all alpiney(?!) Nice.

I'm off

Right then, here goes...

Day one and it's the big off from the Ace Cafe, London. My sister Samantha, along with her husband Nirjor and of course little Imogen were there to see me off. A pretty uneventful ride into France for the first nights camping then followed. Spag bol and beer, while getting to know the others a bit more.