The reports of possible problems in getting a motorcycle onto a boat bound for Manaus proved unfounded as after a little jiggling our three bikes were onboard. The only problem encountered was due to a low tide meaning a pretty big drop down from the pier into a tight fit below deck. As for the Amazon River itself it’s very brown, quite busy and big. Also news to us was that the smaller cheaper boat that we’d opted for over the Amazon Star was in fact a day slower due to having to have to change boats in Santarém.
A quick visit to Santarém’s famous Amazon beach island was already planned so no drama there then. The Ciudad de Santarém 1 was pretty much as expected, basic, fairly busy and loaded below deck with fruit and veg. Myself and Lenny took the first class option and shared an air conditioned cabin whilst BJ unsurprisingly opted for steerage and hung his hammock up with both the local rat and human travellers.
A relaxing few days followed with me using the time to catch up on my long list of films that I’ve missed over the years that I’d downloaded in Belém. I also managed to remember Dr Samatha Hill’s words of warning about sunbathing whilst taking the anti malaria drug Malerone. Er, well after just like last year in the Gambia I once again managed to get sun burnt – ouch! It seems that as good as this drug is any natural sun protection disappears once you start taking it. Fellow travellers...you’ve been warned! Once in Santarem and suitably dressed in my ‘pyjamas’ and all bikes and luggage swapped over onto the slightly smaller Ciudad de Santarém 2 I too opted for hammock class as the cabin was pretty dark, damp and dingey. Yet another piece of bad timing meant that the wonderful beach island
(click here for the pictures that I couldn't take) was 95% underwater due to the tide!
Hey ho, but after Lenny had zoomed in with his camera it appeared that a small section was open after all and so we managed to get a boat ride there for a couple of beers and hours. Our boats aren’t exactly the express service either with many stops en route to the small towns dropping off only fruit and veg, beer and motorcycles. Essential items only then!
Also, sometimes when the river narrows the odd boat manages to hook up to this one with father and children able to jump aboard to sell their wares. The days (now that I’m not being air conditioned) are humid with bugs aplenty once the sun has set over the horizon, with the good old mozzies still having a field day with me around but in truth I was expecting much worse. As for hammock class, this second boat is much more er...cosy. Men one side, women the other with each hammock spaced exactly 18 inches apart it’s more Pappionesque rather than my Palinesque Caspian sea crossing during RTW09. I'm sure that those of you who’ve read the book/seen the film will know what I mean.
The reports of possible problems in getting a motorcycle onto a boat bound for Manaus proved unfounded as after a little jiggling our three bikes were onboard. The only problem encountered was due to a low tide meaning a pretty big drop down from the pier into a tight fit below deck. As for the Amazon River itself it’s very brown, quite busy and big. Also news to us was that the smaller cheaper boat that we’d opted for over the Amazon Star was in fact a day slower due to having to have to change boats in Santarém. 
A quick visit to Santarém’s famous Amazon beach island was already planned so no drama there then. The Ciudad de Santarém 1 was pretty much as expected, basic, fairly busy and loaded below deck with fruit and veg. Myself and Lenny took the first class option and shared an air conditioned cabin whilst BJ unsurprisingly opted for steerage and hung his hammock up with both the local rat and human travellers.
A relaxing few days followed with me using the time to catch up on my long list of films that I’ve missed over the years that I’d downloaded in Belém. I also managed to remember Dr Samatha Hill’s words of warning about sunbathing whilst taking the anti malaria drug Malerone. Er, well after just like last year in the Gambia I once again managed to get sun burnt – ouch! It seems that as good as this drug is any natural sun protection disappears once you start taking it. Fellow travellers...you’ve been warned! Once in Santarem and suitably dressed in my ‘pyjamas’ and all bikes and luggage swapped over onto the slightly smaller Ciudad de Santarém 2 I too opted for hammock class as the cabin was pretty dark, damp and dingey. Yet another piece of bad timing meant that the wonderful beach island (click here for the pictures that I couldn't take) was 95% underwater due to the tide! 
Hey ho, but after Lenny had zoomed in with his camera it appeared that a small section was open after all and so we managed to get a boat ride there for a couple of beers and hours. Our boats aren’t exactly the express service either with many stops en route to the small towns dropping off only fruit and veg, beer and motorcycles. Essential items only then! 
Also, sometimes when the river narrows the odd boat manages to hook up to this one with father and children able to jump aboard to sell their wares. The days (now that I’m not being air conditioned) are humid with bugs aplenty once the sun has set over the horizon, with the good old mozzies still having a field day with me around but in truth I was expecting much worse. As for hammock class, this second boat is much more er...cosy. Men one side, women the other with each hammock spaced exactly 18 inches apart it’s more Pappionesque rather than my Palinesque Caspian sea crossing during RTW09. I'm sure that those of you who’ve read the book/seen the film will know what I mean.
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