A refusal to pay Macedonia’s border police €65 for vehicle paper ‘irregularities’ meant that a second entry back into Greece and a break for Albania before sunset was made. I wasn’t complaning too much though as the ride was yet more mountain passes and although a bit tired we’d find some place to stay soon enough once in right? Thankfully, as we made the border the roads both flattened and quickened and a cheerfull police officer welcomed us in with some Albanian language lessons. 
So far so good then but this always was the country that I had the most doubts about on this trip. Despite being all too aware of the wrong stereotype that the ill informed can make of a country or its people I, like many would’ve summed up Albania as Gypsies/Mafia/Borat. So, after a couple of nights here was that far from the truth? Well yes actually as it’s been the surprise of the trip and one which I doubt will be surpassed. Here’s why... Our intended stay in Macedonia was on Lake Ohrid’s namsake Ohrid. Having left the Macedonian police to explain to their hotellier and restaurenteur as to why they will have an empty bed and table we aimed for Pogradec which sits on Lake Ohrid albeit on the Albanian side. Immediately travelling through Albania gives a feeling of ‘proper’ travel. The motorway speed roads through the open countryside only allow for glimpses of the people plouging the fields, or roofing as virtually all concentration is reserved on the road trying to ensure that the police speedtraps, horses and carts (and I should know!), pedestrians and fast moving vehicles are not collected. My nearest comparison would be Azerbaijan in terms of the ‘Wild West’ feel of the place. An Albanian driving one of the many suspiciously UK number plated cars informed me that €5 is the bribe fee that allows for anything you like to be done. With that in mind we chased the sunset at fairly silly speeds and made Pogradec as darkness fell.
Also falling was us!! A last minute notice of what looked like a ‘stinger’ meant that a handful of brakes, minor lock up and subsequent ‘off’ at almost a stop meant that my shiny new Motor Guzzi had been dropped for the first time *sob* A couple of locals managed to hold back any laughter and help to pick Soul up before demonstrating the collapsible spikes for the correct direction traffic, of which we were. Tired and hungry (always the sign of a good day) we checked into the first place we saw which was a very posh looking Royal Pogradec Hotel. Finally starting to reduce the daily spend due to the cheapness of things here €40 was the price of sheer luxury and after a cleanup we wondered the slightly sinister feeling town before finding a nice little kebab shop which is the number one food here.
The friendly owners and some attempts to overcome the language barrier ended the night nicely and helped to dispell the initial feel of the town before waiting for daybreak to see if Lake Ohrid was anything like its name suggests...
Certainly not was the definite verdict and a further walk around town and next to the lake after a cracking breakfast allowed for many photo opportunities before heading off to the capital Tirana.The ride thus far has naturally started to ‘square off’ Soul’s rear tyre but yet more mountain twisty roads “must be rounding it off again” I thought as we trundled into a hot busy capital not before treating Soul to one of the numerous vehicle washes available on the way. 100 Lek (70p) helped me to say sorry to him for the earlier spill and now half way through the trip it was about time anyway. Accommodation found, a walk around the city unveiled more surprises; with the district of Blloku in particular being a lovely place to hang out amongst the many nice bars, cafes and restaurants. Not for quite long enough though as we must press on. It still seems a bit odd to type this but here we go...Albania has now gone on the list of places that I’d like to revisit.
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