Seoul

OK then, Seoul. I've been here for about five days now and am due onboard a Seattle bound plane fairly soon so time for a catch up...
I finished messing about on the golf course with the other three and actually played quite well which was a surprise seeing as I haven't played for ages. I then headed off on a two day ride to Seoul riding alone along the best roads since the journey began. The first 100k was not all that but suddenly after heading inland and climbing a mountain the terrain and scenery turned just stunning. I stopped for a swim in a lovely mountain lake and once dried off I rode the last 60k (or so I thought) racing against the clock as it gets dark so early here. This 60k turned into more like 100k as the roads were so so twisty. Just so great to ride along these never ending mountain passes on perfect roads with little other traffic to ASOT407. Oh yeah.
Second day in then and much as before with the first 100k or so less like the day before. Nice and steady but not that interesting. I gained a riding companion though for the last 70k as after giving my bike a handful and overtaking a little 250cc looking bike the guy on the bike wanted to play! He caught up and for a good 10k we 'made progress.' At times it was a bit of a struggle and it was only when he stopped to say hi that I realised why. The bike he was on was an MZ660 Supermoto! Basically it's a lightweight sort of stunt bike with the exact engine of mine. What with my luggage, the size of my bike and me we were probably giving away close to 100kg! Anyway, again there was no language understanding but my new friend bought us lunch and we rode 'Korean style' through Seoul's suburbs and into the center. 'Korean style' riding by the way involves the following - high speed, jumping red lights, constant lane changing and undertaking, even taking the pavement sometimes! Highly dangerous but absolutely exhilarating at the same time.
Seoul's a great place. Everything works, is clean, safe, London sized and buzzing. Particularly in the Incheon district which is home to a US army base. Took a day trip to the North/South Demilitarized zone, known as the 'DMZ.' This was both interesting and disappointing in equal measures. Not much to see and loads of propagander sums it up. Back in Soeul's Incheon distric by night, it looks just like in the films 'Full Metal Jacket' and other such films. Although after two nights there it was enough. Didn't find my trance though as I opted to stick with 'Tims Tour' who were on good form!
Next stop the good ol' US of A. Yes siree.

All aboard the Dong Chun ferry for SK...

South Korea began in Russian waters. From the moment I boarded the ferry it was definately goodbye Russia. Efficiency, cleanliness, weird (or quite frankly childish) cartoony/toy things, shocking TV, technical toilets and food. The food. Mostly spicy, that's not a problem but along with the bowl of soup you always get half a dozen or so little bowls of unidentifiable 'stuff' that tastes fowl. And I thought Russian food was bad! Oh and you always get the same meal for breakfast, lunch or dinner. The only difference being what colour it is!
18hrs later and we docked into Sokcho. A further 8hrs then passed until the customs people finished their ping pong games and let us have our bikes. Fortunately only a ten mile ride to the 'Kensington Stars Hotel' was on so with that I hit the road to see exactly how 'Kensington' is was...What is it about the UK that many countries love? What's with the whole Royal family, Routemaster Bus thing? The hotel was very much like Harrods, with beds! All supposed to be quintessentially British but totally cringeworthy...So Harrods done and off to the 'Kolon Hotel,' seriously. A very easy ride followed which included a beach rest/swim and another submarine/destroyer vistit. Hotel Kolon isn't anything like it sounds and here I sit surrounded by about twenty US students all online using up the bloody internet and delaying my sleep! Golf tomorrow on the hotel's nine hole course with Scott, BJ and the CEO of 'Tims Tour' Tim Gaskill. Should be a giggle...

Leaving Asia, Europe or whatever Russia is, I'm heading south for some dog and rice...

That's that bit done then. And bloody hell that was a long way! It's funny, it didn't seem that far until I looked at a google map. Probably because it was mostly over land except for the Channel and the Caspian horror show?! Anyway, a quick entry before South Korea for real then...Vladivostok was pretty much what you'd expect a large historic naval/shipping city to be like. I, of course, had two extra days there after fleeing the unspeakably bleak part of Siberia enroute before the big V. Not much to report on the five days here really except that the weather was pretty gloomy and the night before our ferry (cruise ship?) was a stormer! Totally unplanned (aren't they always the best?) all the RTW riders found themselves in a pizza restaurent and what started out as a nice sensible one soon turned into a riot! A group of russian bikers known as 'The Iron Tigers' joined us too and it's fair to say that any more fun and the police would probably have been called at some point! I'll post a pic or two when I can nick Grant's camera (chief lunatic). I ended up in club 'Arena' in search of some trance but unfortunately didn't find any. Only some old school type tunes that were 'housed up' halfway through. Roll on Seoul...

The Trans Siberian Highway, Day 5 - Vladivostok

The final push. Due to a bout of possible food poisoning (from the £34 steak place!) the ride to the big V looked off. After a shower, cabbage doughnut (don't ask) and coffee we were off on the long road to the Pacific. This road was all in good condition, but the traffic! There were cars/lorries everywhere along with police speed traps in every village (stopped twice, let go after a 'don't even bother' attitude by us). Mercifully our estimate of 850km was 100km too much so we were almost on schedule despite a late start. Eleven hours and later we made it to our hotel and hooked up with another UK biker 'Al' who shared with us his experiences on the road. What's become apparent now is that travelling as part of a group with Kudu severely restricts the sort of adventure and unknown that I seek. This is down to the luxory of time. Time to change plans, time to stop and get involved with the locals and time to wait for help/parts if needed. Unfortunately though, with commitments at home and a work return date it's this extra time that I don't have. Shame.

The Trans Siberian Highway, Day 4 - Khabarovsk

Rest day. Rested and planned an early night for the 850km push for Vladivostok. All went to plan until me and Steve bumped into a Kiwi biker late into the night named Justin, who was travelling on his own and was intending to ride the route we'd just ridden. At this stage with the off roading behind us we were happy to help him out with some items from our kit that he didn't have but could maybe use. Nice guy and I hope our help/advice helped. We'll see. Oh forgot to say, it's bloody expensive here! Steves piece of steak cost him £34 (yes £34), veg extra, and beers were £5 each! A walk around town showed why though, with it being the only place that I've been to in Russia that wasn't grim. Far from it infact, it is a stunning place, very affluent, very european and a real gem. Difficult to believe it's further east than China!

The Trans Siberian Highway, Day 3

Having finished day 2 still 200km from Tynda we opted against going there as it was actually a 150km detour along our route (300km round trip) which along with the state of the road was a definate no no. Our only option then was a 1200km (Think London to Barcelona) monster ride to Khabarovsk where a shower, food, water and a clean bed awaited us. So at first light, still tired and sweating vodka we set off...
And what a ride! I'll never get close to achieving (or would want to for that matter) anything like it again. Dust, fog, sun in eyes, rain, heat and 200% concentration was needed along what was about 40% (240km) sandy, stoney, potholed and corrugated road. This really did become a bit of a white knuckle ride as this lot threatened to shake our bikes apart and if you'd have had a bad one or left the road think Steve Fossett. Absolutely exhausted and 18hrs later at 00:45 we arrived at a hotel in Khabarovsk, got showered, dressed and headed upstairs for a few beers in the hotel bar and sat open mouthed at the unbelievably beautiful Russian girls with their terribly dressed and to be frank quite ugly boyfriends! These guys really don't know how lucky they are. Maybe there's just a shortage of guys around and the girls are desperate? 5am bed, still in shock at what I'd seen.

The Trans Siberian Highway, Day 2

A little like 'Linus' (but dirtier) from the Snoopy cartoons I packed up my tent and bits amid a cloud of mozzies and pointed my bike along with Steve to Tynda. Knowing that we had a mammoth ride ahead along a truly horrendeous road we pressed on. What quickly became clear was exactly how remote we were becoming. Mongolia was supposed to be all that but it had nothing on the Siberian wilderness. Hundreds of miles seemed to pass between fuel stations and food/water places. There weren't even any animals visible on the plains. Eventually we found a roadside cafe and ate at around three, with still a long long way to go. With no tent between us we simply had to make Tynda, which was still bloody miles away! At around 19:00 it became clear that we could be in a bit of trouble, with nowhere to say and darkness setting in, no food/drink, mechanical support or hope of reaching Tynda. In desperation we tried to get to a small village we saw off the TSH. We couldn't do that either as our road didn't service it, only the railway did! Oh dear. This was pointed out to us by some Russian railway workers we found whilst I was noticing that I now had a rear puncture! Clearly seeing how much shit we were about to get into these guys offered to share their acommodation with us. Cosy! Steve didn't seem too keen on the idea with maybe memories of his public school life flodding back to him(!?) Naturally, no verbal communication was possible but after an 'all hands to the deck' with the puncture repair we had no choice but to accept their offer and await the unaviodable (home made) vodka session that of course followed. In truth Steve never quite felt comfortable with the situation, sleeping with one eye open, but I loved it, all in all a great little adventure!

The Trans Siberian Highway, Day 1

The instruction for the group was a 08:30 departure in order to arrive 450km away in a mosquito infested field mid afternoon with nothing to do but sit around and get attacked by the most vicious things ever. Naturally, I rolled out of the hotel at 08:45 not quite ready which was enough to see the support truck and tour leader head off, with the promise that I'll catch them up. Which I did, seven hours later! This was due to me meeting and sharing breakfast with two fellow UK travellers, Simon and Lisa Thomas. These two have been travelling around the world for six and a half years with no plans to head back. They're journalists/photographers and very interesting people. It makes my ride seem like a trip down the road to the chippy! Great to hear their stories and advice. So, on the road finally at 11:00, I bombed to the groups RVP. Had liver and onion in the middle of nowhere on the way which was given to me free by the cafe owner, nice. Er, except that I hate it and I only ate it as I was so hungry! It didn't pass right through me double quick like the two times in the past though, so that's something I guess! After that, got to the camp site, got absolutely mullered eleven times by the vicious mozzies putting up my tent, zipped myself in and stayed there. Great. Decided there and then that I wasn't having it and decided to point my bike the 1000km to Tynda and find a hotel. Steve in our group didn't relish the idea of a week of just crapness either so first thing we were off...

Goodbye Mongolia, it's back to Russia for me...

So that was Mongolia then. If I'm honest, for me it was a bit of a let down. Not as remote as you might think as along the 'remote' northern route we took, signs of humans were fairly frequent with telegraph/power lines, bikes/cars, settlements, cattle and other adventure travellers. The guys out in the country appeared to be permanently drunk on vodka and were just annoying but at least the kids still waved. As for the capital, great clubs with my beloved trance music but apart from that, plently of attitude from all and just all a bit desperate really. The only place I've ever been where I've not felt entirely safe. So, north again and after a better than expected six hour border crossing which included me uploading some trance onto a soldier's mp3 player (always nice to spread the gospal according to St. Markus) and taking a Russian club tune from him that I keep hearing on my travels, I was back into Russia. Me and BJ were the last to be stamped and after a quick meal we headed off on the road to Ulan Ude. Enroute we took a little detour to an iffy lake next to a power staion (Erin Brokovic anyone?) for a dip. We then rode to the hotel and the following rest day allowed me the time to service my bike, which despite my early fears is proving to be very strong and reliable. It needs a new front wheel though due to some serious rocks and potholes that we've smashed into. Ulan Ude, so so. Met a Swedish/Mongolian R6 rider named Sean who twisted my arm into going out drinking with him and his Russian mate Vova in a rubbish club until 3. Which we did.

Party time in Ulaan Bataar!

Clean and no longer tired, I'm here in UB. Four days of R&R gave the oportunity for some fun and Paulo did the business again by hooking me up with 'Ochi' who showed me around town on night one. Club Metropolis was the end venue and...Trance music!!! Planned to go back on Saturday. Before then spent/wasted the time trying to get online to do this blog and catch up on emails etc (little success) and bought a few bits of knock off clothing from the mental market. After a fussy few hours I did OK and was ready for Saturday night...
Saturday night came but no Ochi as he was stuck on a work weekend in the country so in I went on my own. Club Metropolis though was hosting an R&B/Hip hop night so a quick beer later I headed for Club Mass which the barman informed me was where I needed to go. Club Mass. Very very good. Modern, sharp people inside, house music, cold beer. I bumped into a couple of guys I'd met a couple of nights back in Metropolis and after a beer and sort of chat with them I let the DJ know that some trance was in order. And did he deliver! Three hours or so of excactly my music, all bang up to date and just superb. With no gym for two months now how I needed to dance! And no, not because I've turned into some fat slob thank you! Great night and a real surprise! Roll on Seoul in two weeks for some more of the same...

Trying to aviod certain death en route to Ulaan Bataar

After a quite frankly scarey first day of the 1600km off road ride to UB the word for day two was 'steady.' And steady it was with some chill out music on the go, I made camp incident free!
Day three- With hindsight the word for this day was 'dangerous' with my confidence and skill level much higher I got involved with Grant yet again, racing across the sandy plains at speeds approaching 80mph! The day ended with a 20km banzai duel that I only just got beaten to the finish by Grant. Again Des is suited to this type of terrain and he seemed to enjoy it, not sure about me though!
Day four- 'progress' munched the miles today despite a naughty back tyre deciding it didn't want to follow the front any more and I got thrown off without any notice! Muddied and a bit bruised the slog continued and on day five I made UB a day early with a few others from the group who had had enough of being dirty and waking at 6.
And what of the off road hobby? I don't think so. Give me a nice sports touring bike, a beautiful girl on the back and a week in France anyday...

The big one...Mongolia

OK then, Mongolia. The holy grail of off road motorcycling for most of the group. I'm a road rider and always have been so the juries out on whether I could really get into it like the others. A high speed tumble after getting involved in a 'piece of sand the size of Egypt' (c. my dad on the first hole of Richins Park Golf Club a few years ago) didn't really help that idea. Riding off road is so demanding, you spend 99% no, 100% of the time trying not to fall off the track or the bike. And sand, oh my god, you have virtually no control over the bike and get this, the only way to correct the near permenant 'death wobble' is to accelerate even further! Anyway, day one ended with bent handle bars, a bruised hip and sand EVERYWHERE.

The Russia Altai

This was just sensational riding territory, the best yet I think. Beautiful tight mountain/hilly roads and fast sweeping bends with very little traffic. The roads in the Swiss alps are certainly smoother but are full of other vehicles. On these type of roads Des really performs well with plenty of 'grunt' between corners he can easily keep up with the more powerful big BMW bikes. I spent the day jousting with Grant, a sports bike rider and it was just wonderful. Just what I needed after the previous five days of tedium. :-)

The fun's most definately over with Russia looming...

With four days worth of adventure, fun, and general good times behind me three long boring riding days and wild camping lay ahead. Oh and the worst border crossing so far (somehow even worse than Turkmenistan's 7hrs!) Anyway, it was all a bit depressing really not helped by two nights in the grim Barnaul. Still, a few km's of the 1000km weren't too bad I suppose and the Russian Altai region just before Mongolia sounds promising...

More fun in Almaty

Hooked up with Steve and Andrew in the 'Guns and Roses' bar as arranged on the Friday. In truth the place was a bit of a freak show, with it being a pick up joint for the local nasty girls and western businessmen. We did though move on to 'Club Esperenza' which actually wasn't too bad. Many beers were drunk and BJ even stayed the distance, despite leaving the club four times!
Saturday me and BJ hooked up with our great new friend Askar. He helped to arrange for our bikes to receive some welding that they needed and took us for some more trail riding in the early evening. Again our (but mostly my) off road skill level was found wanting as I picked up Des a few times and had to give up as it was getting dark. Despite a 8.5 month pregnant wife Askar insisted on going out for a few and at 5.30 I was in bed! Askar you are a legend, thanks for everything.

Charyn Canyon, Kazakhstan

Myself, a smiling Grant and BJ made the 150km day trip to the Charyn canyon. On arrival, took some pics of the impressive place and very slowly got all three bikes down the incredibely difficult track down into the canyon floor. The one that Euan and Charley couldn't get out from during 'Long Way Round.' As the last of our bikes was coming out (mine) later, a group of Russian bikers arrived to check out us and the steep, track. Er at this point I should admit that getting our bikes down and back up took absolutely ages with much pushing,pulling and some Russian muscle! Despite my warnings on how difficult it was one of the Russians and a local guy named Askar rode straight down, turned around and rode straight back up! Oh dear, cue much laughter! Spent quite a while there before heading back to Almaty chatting and sharing bike travelling stories with these seven real great guys. Good times.

Boring Bishtek, but all roads lead to Almaty, Kazakhstan.

Bishtek was very uneventful except for nearly breaking a toe at night on a speed bump so it was with a sense of relief when an opportunity to go to Kazakhstan (cue Borat jokes) two days early arrived. For some reason only four of the group had our visas in our passports and we could take that option, which we did. Those four were myself, BJ, Captain Jack and Grant (more later). Made the border crossing and rode into Almaty. Nice place, beautiful women but not great food. As we searched for accommodation we met a couple of English guys Steve and Andrew who were working out there and offered to show me around in a night or two. But first Grant...Grant a retired big old NZ farmer had been internet dating a lady from Almaty for several months named 'Olga!' He was subject to much piss taking from day one about what would probably turn up on the big night... Well us three were privilidged to be there for the big meeting and...would you believe it but a brand new white V6 VW Tuareg only turned up with a very elegant 'Olga' behind the wheel! Grant 1 Everyone else 0! Good work. Unfortunately I didn't have my camera for this momentous event so you'll have to make do with my bloodied, sore big toe in Bishtek!

Kygyzstan, Lake Som Kul

So day two trail riding started and two offs in the first 200m (yes 200m!) resulted in a broken clutch lever and a few scuffs. I somehow made it back onto tarmac much later in one piece but a further two tasty offs, one at speed and another after powering through a small muddy stream ended up in ripping a pannier off! Next stop Bishtek...

Maybe Patrick Moore had a point...Krygzstan

Tashkent was a bit of a let down so after a quick mini service me and Des were off to Kygyzstan. I'll stop here and mention this picture. This is my favorite picture so far, it absolutely sums up the trip for me so far on too many levels that I can explain here. Love it. Anyway, trail riding in the mountains beckoned and with reports on a guy I know that broke his leg on these trails a week before I rode the test run for Mongolia. Oh my word, it was tough. Probably not helped by me still having my 90% worn road tyres on rather than my off road ones! Two offs and a lucky escape later and I'd made it into my sleeping bag. I couldn't sleep though and decided to see what the night sky was like. Stunning! I moved out from my tent and laid out under the most amazing night sky ever. Shooting stars, satellites, full moon, milky way the lot. All with the simply superb A State Of Trance 2009 album in my ears. Stirring stuff.

Billy Goat Gruff on the way to Tashkent...

A now usual long ride made longer by two seperate incidents involving Uzbekistan's dodgey police...Both incidents related to 'speeding' Moi? On both times a $100 was requested along with the threats of 'deportation, police station, and a hand cuff gesture. Well excuse me but no thank you officer. Now I don't mind a bung in the right circumstances but clearly these two jokers were taking the piss so after much shoulder shrugging and helpful comments like "I have two cats knees and a horse in my small bag you gypsy" (all in Czech) they finally got fed up and let me go and fined the other RTWers behind me instead! 2-0 suckers!! LOL